Entering southwestern Cappadocia and the Ihlara Valley, consisting of the three villages Selime, Belisırma and Ihlara from west to east, is truly as magical as promised. The small, quiet villages set below rocks filled with carved-out churches (more than 100) and houses – it’s difficult to describe. I ride down the seemingly new road to Belisırma in the late afternoon, and stay at a quiet camping site. An American, two Germans and four Polish are there, too. The seemingly evergreen valley floor with the lively, clear river running through it like a snake. The high mountain walls on each side, with dark holes of rock-hewn churches and houses.