To find the right border post is not easy. In the small northeastern corner of Ghana, there seems to be several only with Togo. There are rarely signs showing where to go at borders between African countries, but it is usually possible to rely on the one and only main road in the area. Usually a tarred road. Here, there are instead several, and none of them are tarred.
“The police? No, he is out. Back in thirty minutes,” says someone at the first police office that I pass. “Immigration and exit stamp? Unless in Bawku,” he continues. “Isn’t it possible to get the stamp here,” I ask to make sure – not really into cycling back to Bawku after more than an hour’s pedaling. “Yes, here is also possible. There is a customs office five minutes up that road,” he replies and directs me to a small path, big enough only for bicycles and people on foot.
Reaching the office, two boys sit outside on a wooden bench. They tell me that the man in charge is out, “But he will come back soon.” I stay around; wait. The boys listen to a radio, and occasionally get up and dance a few steps on the sandy ground in front of the house. When the officer finally arrives, I’m told that it is the wrong border.
I’m directed back to the intersection from where I continue on the main road. After forty kilometers – most of it on a short cut underneath huge power lines – I finally reach the main border post. I get my exit stamp out of Ghana there and – after a few kilometers, in busy three-border town Sinkasse – get my Togolese visa for 10,000 CFA.
Togo offers beautiful views. Winding roads across rolling hills, through what I’d call typical savanna. Low grass vegetation be-scattered with only a few beautiful, grand trees. Compounds and villages look very neat and ordered. It is much more clean and quiet here than in Ghana. A calm rests over the whole country. No children that shouts from along the road; not much traffic. It feels like cycling on a minor rural road instead of what it actually is – the country’s only main, tarred road.
In Dapaong, the first city that I reach, is a nice auberge where I get my own room for only four dollars a night. It is a nice, quiet town also – to walk around at night feels completely safe and there is a lot of life in the streets.