Lucky to get a ticket to the always full ferry to Sudan in the late afternoon, I board it together with a wide range of nationals by sunset: Sudanese and Egyptians (of course), one Nigerian, two Italians, one French, one British, three Germans, one Dutch, one American and one Philippine. It’s a decent though boring 15-hour ride across Lake Nasser – the only event being the sight of Abu Simbel a couple of hours after sunrise the next morning. An on-board kitchen serves the usual ful (beans) with bread, jam and cheese, and sleep is best on upper (3rd) deck. Up where the breeze is good and far from the roaring engines.
Customs and immigrations where easy and quick the following day. Camp one night in courtyard of one of the dozen or so bulk hotels (as simple as it gets) that scatter small-town Wadi Halfa.