Hitchhike through the water filled, five kilometer Anzob tunnel with Chinese road-workers before I begin the relaxing ride down to capital Dushanbe at 700 meters. The road is downhill more or less all the way – first steeply, cut through the mountain side, then gentle and slow, following a river.

I eat at one of several roadside cafés. The food here is absolutely delicious. A clear soup with mutton, chickpeas, potato, tomato, carrot and heaps of fresh herbs like parsley and coriander. Wonderful!

Stay in Dushanbe with Couchsurfer Roscoe from Australia while I shop for warm clothes and an official visit-permit for the Pamir mountain region.